Pistou & Pastis

An Edible Love Letter to the South of France

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Rhubarb Tart

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True confession

I have to be brutally honest here, I am not a huge rhubarb fan. To be blunt, I could do without it for the rest of my life. Then, the other day, I was surfing the internet and came across a picture perfect rhubarb tart that stole my heart and captured my dreams.  I became utterly hypnotized by the shot from Jo Harrington, a self described ‘longtime London foodie challenged to bake the perfect pie.’ If you look up her site you will see quite possibly the most amazing collection of pies ever made. In the same moment, I felt both worthless as a pie maker and speechless in wonder of her patient handiwork with dough. Trust me, until you have tried to replicate it yourself you will never realize the amount of work involved. My sincere compliments to her skill set.

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A Simple and Seductive Warm Chocolate Tart

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This weekend I made my all time favorite dessert, a simple and decadent warm chocolate tart with the most amazing creamy texture. I first encountered it at Joel Robuchon’s three star Michelin restaurant in Paris. I had gone through his multi course tasting menu thinking nothing could top what I had just eaten when the waiter appeared at my table with a rolling cart full of pastries. It was love at first bite and I was determined to make this part of my repertoire at home. Luckily the recipe was published in Chef Robuchon’s book ‘Simply French’ co-authored by Patricia Wells. A recipe so simple anyone could make this at home….

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Tarte Tatin of Apples: Memories of My Maman

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Micheline Colas, my mother

Tarte Tatin has been popular worldwide since its birth at Jean Tatin hotel since its creation in the late 1800’s.   Jean Tatin opened his hotel (l’Hotel Tatin) in the 1800’s.  In 1888 his two daughters Caroline and Stéphanie took over when he passed away.  Caroline managed the books while Stéphanie cooked.  From morning to night, she worked in her kitchen.  She was a great and gifted cook but not the brightest of people. Her specialty was an apple tart, served perfectly crusty, caramelized and which melted in the mouth.

Tarte Tatin of Apples

Tarte Tatin of Apples

The sisters were always busy during hunting season and their restaurant was exceedingly popular. One day, Stéphanie, running late because she had been flirting with a handsome hunter, rushed into the kitchen, threw the apples, butter and sugar in a pan and then rushed out to help with the other duties. The odor of caramel filled the kitchen, Stéphanie realized she’d forgotten the apple tart, but what could she do now? She decides to put the pàte brisée on top of the apples, pops the pan in the stove to brown a bit more and then turns it upside down to serve. Raves of delight emanate from the dining room. The story continues a bit from that first day. Curnonsky, the famous gastronome of the time, hears about the Tarte and declares it a marvel. Word of this new gastronomic delight reaches Paris. Maxim’s owner hears about it and he decides he must have the recipe.  He supposedly sent a cook/spy, disguised as a gardener, to Lamotte-Beuvron to discover the secret. The spy is successful, brings the recipe back to Maxim’s, and it has been on the menu of that famous restaurant ever since.  Our version features fresh California figs which currently are in season.

Tarte Tatin of Apples
Recipe Type: Dessert
Cuisine: French
Author: Chef François de Mélogue
Prep time:
Cook time:
Total time:
Serves: 8
Ingredients
  • ¾ c.                Sugar
  • ¼ c.                Butter
  • 8                    Granny Smith Apples, peeled, cut into 1/8ths
  • 1                      Orange, zested
  • 1 pinch          Cinnamon
  • 1 recipe         Tarte Tatin Dough
  • [br]Tarte Tatin Dough
  •  12 oz.             All Purpose Flour
  • ¾ t.                  Salt
  • 1 t.                   Baking Powder
  • ½ pound       unsalted Butter
  • ½ c.                ice cold Water
Instructions
  1. [br]For the Apples
  2. In a heavy gauged pan, preferably a 10” cast iron pan, caramelize sugar and butter.
  3. Add zested orange and cinnamon.
  4. Arrange apple pieces in a circle in the pan.
  5. Top with dough, tuck in edges around the sides
  6. Bake in a 500˚ oven till the dough is golden brown, about ten to fifteen minutes.
  7. Let cool slightly then flip over onto plate, dust with powdered sugar and serve immediately.
  8. [br]For the Dough:
  9. Mix the flour, salt and baking powder together.
  10. Cut the butter into small cubes and mix into the flour mixture.  You’ll know it’s mixed in correctly when it looks like coarse corn meal.
  11. Add just enough ice cold water to make a dough.  You want to be very careful NOT to over mix the dough or else it will be tough.  Flour develops gluten which acts very similarly to a muscle.  It’s what gives our bread and pastries structure.
  12. Let the dough rest for one full hour, or overnight.
  13. Roll the dough out to a 12” circle.

 

 

Rhubarb and Custard Tart
Burgundy by Bacchus